-Kavita Rajput, Lecturer, MGM IFD
Himroo is very popular hand-loom textile woven in and around Aurangabad region. As we all know Aurangabad is well known for weaving of its ‘Queen of Silks’ that is Paithani saree. Each and every woman of Maharashtra possesses this traditional saree. So we all are familiar with it, but the other hadcrafted textile. Himroo of Aurangabad is disappearing day by day.And many if us may not be aware of Himroo. To know more about the problems faced by artisans first we should understand what Himroo is and how it came to Aurangabad.
Himroo weaving has glorious tradition of Persian art. Mohammad Tughlaq brought Himroo weaving to Aurangabad during his reign. When he shifted his capital from Delhi to Daultabad. The word Himroo originated from Persian word Hum-ruh which means ‘similar’. Himroo was endorsed by the Nizam and Mughal Nobility. During Nizam’s period Sherwanis were made of Himroo textile.
Himroo is a hand-loom textile made of silk and cotton. In this textile lengthwise threads (warp) are cotton while width wise threads (weft) are silk. The designs are weaved by mixing double colours of threads to give elegant look. Shawls and Sarees of Himroo are very famous but besides that bed sheets, Jacket, pillowcases, Curtains are also made up of Himroo. Himroo shawls are popular for its charm and beauty they are mostly woven in red,yellow, black, green, white,and blue.The traditional designs are Ajantha designs inspired by Ajantha and Ellora caves. Some other designs are Guldasta designs, Ahemadavadiwhale, Tota Maina, Tari, Kasti, Chidiya, Floral, ChoateKarri. etc. Himroo is 600years old traditional art of weaving but now a days there are very few artisans left who weave original Himroo, therefore this traditional hand loom fabric is vanishing rapidly. Artisans are not ready to accept this weaving tradition as profession because it is a time consuming art and they get low wages.
Consumers also buy this textile rarely as it is very costly. Therefore demand for Himroo is also less only people from elite and rich families can afford it. Another reason for vanishing of this art is use of power loom. Now a day’s all types of traditional textiles are imitated on power loom as they are manufactured very fast they are cheap and consumer buy it so,there is less demand for traditional textiles.
In order to preserve the dying art of this handloom awareness has to be created about its history, aesthetics and its product usages.