Anjali Khot, Asst. Professor, MGM IFD
Being in the Textile & fashion field since college days, interest in traditional textiles of India along with pattern making has been developed. And it was that special moment when I visited Patan, experienced the story of weaving of amazing textile of Gujarat – Patola. Now I want to share weaving tales of this beautiful saree to all of you. Let us discover the beautifully woven traditional wedding saree of Gujarat!!!
Patola means “Queen of Silks”. The Patola silk sarees are one of the finest varieties of handloom silk saree from Gujarat.
Patola Saree – a symbol of status
The sarees became a symbol of status and part of wedding dress and then on regarded as best pure silk bridal saree of Gujarat. These are very expensive, once worn only by those belonging to royal and higher class families.
Patola saree is a treasure collection, especially for women all over the world. Handloom silk sarees have their own appeal to various classes of people all over the world. Also, they are used by different fashion designers as their base work. Patola sarees are beautiful that can be used for formal occasions even.
Specialty of Patola – Double Ikat Technique
Patan in Gujarat is very famous for the manufacture of Patola. Patola is made by Double Ikat technique. And this technique is very complicated. Firstly, pattern design or naksha is made.
Then both the yarn i.e. warp and weft silk threads, are tied with cotton strings. This is a very complex & mathematical process. The strings are then dyed according to a pattern. The process is repeated for every different color in the pattern, doing all the colors takes one or two months!!!
After untying, the dyed yarns are arranged on the simple traditional handloom according to nakha or graphics of design for weaving. The dyed marks align when forming the pattern on the cloth.
Un-ting the thread
The process is so complex and time-intensive which makes Patola so valuable.
Both sides of the Patola have the exact same design, and hence, you can wear a Patan Patola either way!!
Design Variance in Patola Saree-
The main designs found on Patola are-
Narikunjar—is the motif of an elephant & dancing Gopis
Ratanchawk Bhat__ is the floral motif in the geometrical form
Paan Bhat__Peepal tree leaf design
Chabadi Bhat__ floral basket design
Wagh-kunjar Bhat__ Tiger & elephant motif
Vibrant Colors
The colors used for Patola silk saree are all bright and so fast that a Patola may get torn or worn out, but its design would never fade.
There is a Guajarati saying “Though it may suffer wear & tear, a Patola’s design will never perish.” Hopefully, all the same can be said about the art. In all of Patan, only two families still make Patola & know the entire Patola process.
The price tag on Patola saree justifies the days of painstaking work. One custom made saree starts at Rs. 1, 50,000 !!!