Anjali Khot, Asst. Professor, MGM IFD
Do you know, in the fashion world, the patternmaker is a very important professional figure?
Designers focused mostly on style & concept and creating the look they want while the pattern maker brings it to life in a more technical way. The pattern maker makes the paper pattern of designer’s drawing. Patternmaker is a skilled worker, has to create a pattern on paper using drafting method or with computer-aided drafting software. Patternmaker uses their knowledge of fabrics, sewing skills & ability to alter garments to draft a pattern that replicates a design concept.
WHAT IS PATTERN MAKING?
Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating & shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to the curves of the human figure.
Pattern making is a technical drawing or drafting of basic blocks using mathematical calculations. It is done on thick paper or brown paper. Standard size charts, dress forms or individual figures are measured. These measurements are then converted into basic patterns or slopers. The slopers or foundation patterns are then converted into the designer pattern by using different pattern making techniques.
Thus it is a highly skilled technique which requires technical ability and understanding of design using practical knowledge of garment construction.
ROLE OF PATTERN MAKER –
- Create a master pattern for each size.
- Putting –in specifications to assist with pattern cutting like fold lines, grain lines & bias are marked.
- Drawing details on outlined parts to indicate where parts are to be joined, the position of pleats, pockets, buttonholes & other features. Seam allowances are marked.
- Ensure the creation of the sample pattern to the designer’s style.
- Making adjustments to a pattern after cutting, sewing & fittings.
- Sometimes the pattern maker suggests suitable solutions to the designer without altering the basis of creation.
WHY SHOULD YOU KNOW PATTERN MAKING?
All pattern makers are designers, but not all designers are pattern makers. If you are a designer & does custom sewing then it is best, you know pattern making.
Pattern maker’s pattern is used by an apparel manufacturer to mass production for clothing retailers.
Pattern making is a very challenging & very technical aspect of the fashion design process. Pattern drafting requires a high degree of skills, certain aptitudes & ambitions within a maker, for a successful pattern to be drafted.
With formal education & experience, you can pursue a career as a pattern maker, fashion designer, manufacturing manager & fit designer.
Even when a good pattern maker has a behind-the-scene role, his or her work is valued by stylists and fashion houses because it is a fundamental cornerstone for the success of a garment or collection!!!