Aditee Zalte, Lecturer, MGM IFD
Natural dyeing is a very slow process, but that’s the beauty of it. Learn to slow down and just look around you, observe what nature is doing, try to understand it, feel it and protect it. There is a reason why we call it “Mother Earth” and that’s because we would not be here without it. It’s really as simple as that! It’s time for everyone to think about who makes your clothes? Where and how exactly they’re made and how are they dyed? Wouldn’t you prefer to wear something harmless and unique? I definitely do.
Eco printing is all about colors, some are shadowy and others are defined. In eco printing, dyeing and printing is done by using natural pigments present in flora. These pigments appear in different colors depending on the season and time of the year. This process helps the natural pigments to leave incredible details of form and colors on fabrics. This process is a one kind of art where no two pieces can be similar. With change in season, certain flora creates impressions, while others don’t.
In India, you can use teak leaves for their beautiful purple pink color, guava leaves for their yellow color, marigold flowers as well as eucalyptus leaves. Normally flowers do not print or make a clear picture, but give an impression. The impressions given by leaves also vary. Sometimes these are clearly defined; otherwise they are blurred or create a shadow. The technique involves a lot of experimentation.
First, the fabric is washed very carefully and thoroughly with soap. Then it is mordant which means that the fabric is dyed in different colors. In this process, it is soaked in different solutions such as tea, indigo and so on. It is then spread out and allowed to dry in sunlight. Sun rays also play a major part in this process. A cloudy weather may ruin the impression.
After the fabric is dried, instead rolls them very tightly I order to ensure that the leaves comes in contact with fibers and make sure that it is properly imprinted. Then you can steam or boils them for three to four hours, depending on the leaf.
However, unlike other processes, eco printing is only possible on certain fabric. The best absorption of colors is on silk. So I will say prefer pashima silk or pure silk. Please don’t be disappointed if the results are not what you expected. It’s all about experimenting and learning how different plants react to different fibers.